FAQs

Heat pumps use a highly temperature-sensitive refrigerant and a series of fans and compression and expansion valves to absorb heat and move from one place to another. Refrigerators and air conditioners use the same principles, but a heat pump can reverse the cooling process to provide heat in winter.

Yes, many heat pump models are built to provide 100% of New England’s heating needs. When you contact installers, request a quote for a “cold climate heat pump.” These models are designed to work efficiently in sub-freezing, even sub-zero, temperatures.

The size of your heat pump should be based on an accurate measurement of your home’s “heat load.” That’s the number of BTUs (British Thermal Units) of heat needed to keep the building cozy on the coldest winter nights. This measurement is called a “Manual J calculation.” When you meet with potential installers, ask them if they would perform a Manual J calculation or to explain how they would estimate your heat load. 

It’s important the installers do not oversize the equipment. Oversizing not only leads to higher installation and operating costs, but also to inadequate dehumidification in summer. You may be able to estimate your home’s heat load. This short video provides an overview of CoolCalc, a free software program that makes it easy for you to estimate your own home’s heat load: https://youtu.be/fnVZ884Tvdg.

You can find trusted installers through our partners at Heat Pumps: Get Advice and Shop Installers.

The cost of installing a whole home heat pump system in our region is averaging between $15,000 - $25,000, but the cost depends on what percentage of your heating the heat pump will provide, how large your home is, and how well-insulated it is. A heat pump for a relatively small, well insulated house might cost only $6,000, but a large, under-insulated home might cost $45,000.

Whether you will save money on heating costs depends on what you pay for electricity and for the fuel you’re currently using for heat. If you now use electric resistance baseboard, a heat pump will definitely save you money on operating costs. If you currently heat with oil or propane, heating your home with a heat pump will likely cost less. If you currently heat with gas, whether you save money will depend on the electricity and gas rates in your area. 

We recommend you consult with a building science expert from one of our partners  to help you estimate relative costs based on the individual characteristics of your home, your current fuel and electricity costs, and other factors. 

You could also input your particular costs of electricity and the cost of your current method of heating into this interactive calculator from Efficiency Maine: Residential Heating System Cost Calculator | Efficiency Maine.

Yes, if you already have ductwork for heating, you can likely plan to replace that equipment with a cold climate heat pump, pending an assessment of your existing ductwork. The heat pump can provide cooling as well as heating, giving you year-round comfort.  To read about a family that replaced its fuel oil forced air furnace HVAC system with air source heat pumps, go to Friedman Case Study_2.pdf (neep.org).

Yes, replacing your electric baseboard resistance heating system with heat pumps will save you money in winter because heat pumps are 2 to 3 times more efficient than electric baseboards. Heat pumps also provide efficient air conditioning with the same equipment.  To read about a homeowner who replaced her baseboard heating and window units with an air source heat pump, go to Nia's New Floor Mounted Air-Source Heat Pump - Massachusetts Clean Energy Center (masscec.com).

It is often possible to use existing ductwork with a heat pump, but you will need to have a professional inspect your home to confirm if your existing ductwork would be adequate for a heat pump.

Existing central A/C ductwork can often be used with a central heat pump, but you will need a professional assessment to confirm if that ductwork would be adequate.  In some cases, you might need to augment the central heat pump with one or more ductless heads.

For now, there are no simple one-for-one drop-in replacements for boilers. Your boiler system was designed to use very hot water or steam to provide the heat needed to keep your home warm in the coldest hours of winter. “Air-to-water" or “hydronic” heat pump technology is not able to heat water to the high temperatures that your boiler system is designed to use.

You can lessen or eliminate your dependence on your boiler by upgrading to ductless air source heat pumps. To read about homeowners who replaced their gas- and oil-fired boilers with air source heat pumps, go to James Heats Up His Victorian Home with An Air-Source Heat Pump System - Massachusetts Clean Energy Center (masscec.com) and Slack Case Study_4.pdf (neep.org)

Air-to-water heat pumps may be good options if you already have radiant flooring, or will be able to add radiant flooring or radiant wall panels.

If you have radiant floor heating already or are considering installing it, you could consider an “air-to-water” heat pump. Expect the process to take longer and the cost to be higher than the common air-to-air heat pumps, because, for now, there are not many installers in our region with experience installing these systems. To learn how air-to-water heat pumps work, go to 4BED0381F5C1422085B90A7C8A864B4B.ashx (masssave.com).

You can! Mass Save and other energy efficiency programs incentivize the use of a “smart control” thermostat to seamlessly toggle between the current system and the heat pump. Your heat pump installer will program the new thermostat with a specific set point – often around 30 degrees – above which the heat pump works and below which your current system turns on and the heat pump turns off.

The smallest capacity units produce 6,000 BTUs, roughly enough to heat a room about 15 ft x 20 ft., or about 300 square feet. If you have multiple small rooms next to each other, you might be able to use one head with short duct runs to serve those adjacent rooms.

The average lifespan of an air-source heat pump is about 15 years.

Ground-source heat pumps are generally more efficient than air-source heat pumps, and thus have lower energy demand and lower operating costs. They are more expensive to install, however, and not all properties are appropriate for ground source heat pumps.  A professional would need to inspect your property to determine if the installation of a ground-source heat pump is possible.  For more information on ground source heat pumps, go to Ground-Source Heat Pumps - Massachusetts Clean Energy Center (masscec.com).

A heat pump condenser (the outdoor unit) needs air flow in all directions. It is generally placed a foot away from the house and needs a foot clearance from the ground and any landscaping. It can be placed on or under a porch. It should not be put under a roof overhang where falling snow or icicles might damage it. The condenser can be up to 150 feet away from all indoor units.

You would need to work with your condo association to identify an appropriate place. Condensers can be located on or under a deck or on the roof.

Generally, you need a 200-amp service to support heat pumps.

All modern furnaces and boilers rely on electricity in some way, so fossil fuel heating is no more reliable in a power outage than an electric heat pump would be. Heat pumps can be powered by a generator or by battery backup systems. Some consumers have chosen to have a wood stove as a back-up for power outages.

Most LG and Samsung equipment have wifi built in. For equipment from other companies, such as Mitsubishi and Fujitsu, a wireless module can be added to the unit, for approximately $250/unit.

Residents can easily clean the filters on the indoor units. Do this at least every season according to the owner’s manual. For the outdoor unit, remove leaves and snow from all sides. No other regular maintenance is required.

Heat pumps are vulnerable to mold in a way similar to all air conditioning systems. Warm air is pulled into the machine, then as heat is extracted, some of the moisture in the air, along with whatever microscopic impurities floating in the air, clings to the inside of the machine. Water is constantly being drained to the outside during cooling mode.

To prevent any mold growth during the cooling season, if the outdoor temperature is such that you do not need your heat pump to actively cool your home, switch the setting from cooling mode to fan only. That air flow will completely dry out the internal components and prevent mold proliferation.

If you see dust or mold in your indoor head, schedule a professional deep cleaning (which should be comparable in cost to an annual furnace tune-up).

This video by a heat pump expert offers a longer examination of this issue, Should I be worried about moldy mini splits (youtube.com).

Yes! A federal tax credit of $2,000 is available for installations of heat pumps made on or after January 1, 2023. You can claim an additional $600 for upgrading your electric panel. Find more details at Home Energy Tax Credits | Internal Revenue Service (irs.gov).

Federal rebates for heat pumps are not yet in effect.  As soon as we have more details, we will update this page. For more general information about the federal rebates, go to How much money can you get with the Inflation Reduction Act? — Rewiring America. You can sign up to receive updates about Massachusetts roll-out of the IRA rebate program at: Sign up (e2ma.net)

In Massachusetts, the whole home heat pump incentive is $10,000 per home. The partial home rebate is based on heating capacity installed and is $1,250 per ton of heating capacity. A ton of heating capacity equals 12,000 BTUs, roughly enough to heat a room 20 ft x 30 ft, or about 600 square feet.  For more information on air-source heat pump incentives, go to Mass Save | Air Source & Air to Water Heat Pumps.  For more information on ground-source heat pumps, go to Mass Save | Ground Source Heat Pumps. Rebates are sent to the consumer after they pay the contractor and submit receipt and other application paperwork to Mass Save.

Rhode Island’s rebates depend on the type of heating the homeowner is displacing and other factors. For more information on the incentives that Rhode Island offers, go to:https://cleanheatri.com/.

Massachusetts homeowners must fill out the rebate form, found here:  >Mass-Save-Air-Source-Heat-Pump-Rebate-Form.pdf (masssave.com).

Rhode Island’s rebate forms can be found here:  Heat Pump Incentives | Rhode Island Energy (rienergy.com).

If your electricity is provided by a municipal power company, check with your town about its rebates.

Homeowners and installers must fill out and sign Mass Save's Whole-home heat pump verification form, found here:  Mass-Save-Whole-Home-Heat-Pump-Verification-Form.pdf (masssave.com).

In Mass Save territory, homeowners are required to use a member of the Mass Save Heat Pump Installer Network for their heat pump projects to receive a rebate.  To find installers who serve Massachusetts, go to Mass Save | Heat Pump Installer Search.

For Rhode Island, you must use one of the installers on this list of participating installers: Rhode Island Heating and Cooling Program Participating Contractor List (rienergy.com).

For homes in communities served by a Mass Save sponsor, you can email your rebate question to customer service at Contact Us | Contact Mass Save® | Mass Save

In Rhode Island, you will submit a proposal to CleanHeatRI before the heat pump is installed so you can know for certain what your incentive would be.

Mass Save offers zero-interest financing opportunities for energy-efficient home upgrades, including up to $50,000 on the installation of air source and ground source heat pumps, and up to $25,000 for the installation of insulation, combustion heating systems, and more.  For more information, go to Mass Save® Heat Loan | Energy-Saving Loan Program.

If you live in Rhode Island, you may be eligible for a zero-interest loan of up to $25,000 for approved high-efficiency heat pump systems that are displacing electric, oil, or propane heating systems.  To start the process, you need to call EnergyWise at 888-633-7947 to schedule a no-cost home energy assessment. Go to Heat Pump Incentives | Rhode Island Energy (rienergy.com) for more information.

In a condo association with four or fewer units, each unit may qualify for the whole home rebate.  Condos in larger buildings would need to apply to the multi-family program, which has a different incentive structure. See Mass Save | Multi-Family.

Mass Save offers an instant $750 rebate for qualified heat pump water heaters that are purchased from participating distributors.  For more information on heat pump water heaters, go to Heat Pump Water Heater Rebates (masssave.com).  The list of participating distributors can be found here: Master-Participant-Contact-List---HPWHs.pdf (masssave.com).

Rhode Island offers a $600 rebate on heat pump water heaters.  For more information on incentives for heat pump water heaters and other appliances and equipment, go to Rebate Programs | Rhode Island Energy (rienergy.com).  The rebate form can be found here:  rie-2680081-rebate-form-hpwh.pdf (rienergy.com).

The Inflation Reduction Act also incentivizes heat pump water heaters. The $2,000 tax credit for heat pump water heaters came into effect on January 1, 2023, and will last 10 years. There will be federally funded rebates for heat pump water heaters too, but we don’t yet have the details. We’ll update this site when more information becomes available.

Eligibility for rebates and incentives are determined by installation date, not purchase date.

In most cases, rebates are paid to the homeowner, not the installer, but your installer may be willing to fill out and submit the rebate application for you, if you have signed the forms yourself.

You can download the forms from Mass Save website, Residential Rebates & Incentives for Homeowners, Renters, & Landlords (masssave.com). 

If you get your electricity from a municipal electric company, contact your utility for the appropriate forms.  

Rhode Island’s rebate program page is here:  Rebate Programs | Rhode Island Energy (rienergy.com).

Residents can easily clean the filters on the indoor units. Do this at least every season according to the owner’s manual. For the outdoor unit, clean leaves and snow away from all sides. No other regular maintenance is required.

Heat pumps are vulnerable to mold in a way similar to all air conditioning systems. Warm air is pulled into the machine, then as heat is extracted, some of the moisture in the air, along with whatever microscopic impurities floating in the air, clings to the inside of the machine. Water is constantly being drained to the outside during cooling mode.

To prevent any mold growth during the cooling season, if the outdoor temperature is such that you do not need your heat pump to actively cool your home, switch the setting from cooling mode to fan only. That air flow will completely dry out the internal components and prevent mold proliferation.

If you see dust or mold inside your indoor head, schedule a professional deep cleaning (which should be comparable in cost to an annual furnace tune-up).

This video by a heat pump expert offers a longer examination of this issue, Should I be worried about moldy mini splits (youtube.com).

Generally, heat pumps work most efficiently at a steady temperature.  Turning a heat pump down when you're away or asleep may actually use more energy than leaving it on, because it has to work harder to come back to the desired temperature than it does to maintain it.  This is why most heat pump experts suggest that consumers “set it and forget it.”

If you have a heat pump with the capacity to gradually return to ideal temperature after a set-back, BetterBuilt NW suggests no more than a 2 degree set-back for nights or if no one is home for more than 6 hours during the day. If you are going to be away from home for at least 48 hours and you are able program your thermostat to increase the temperature just 2 degrees every hour, then you could potentially save energy with a 5- to 8-degree set-back. 

For more information and tips on maximizing the benefits of your air source heat pump, go to Getting the Most From Your New System - Massachusetts Clean Energy Center (masscec.com). This article provides a case study with some data confirming the “set it and forget it” advice for heat pumps: Set It & Forget It: How Heat Pumps Resolved a Long Term Marital Dispute - CleanTechnica.

If you get your electric bill from Eversource in eastern Mass, you may request a change to a slightly discounted electric heating rate. Eversource currently has four residential rate classes:

• R1 - Residential 
• R2 - Residential Assistance 
• R3 - Residential Space Heating  
• R4 - Residential Space Heating Assistance

The MA Department of Public Utilities (DPU) sets the rates that Eversource can charge their customers, and this changes twice a year for winter rates (January - June) and summer rates (July - December). The current Eversource Delivery charges – the lower half of your bill – are nominally lower for customers using electricity as their primary heating source. You can contact Eversource by phone or through your online account to change your rate class to reflect electric space heating; although you will only save fractions of a cent per kWh, in the future the DPU may authorize further discounts for those with electric space heating. Plus, changing to the electric heating rate class may be helpful for local or statewide data collection/analysis — to identify customers who have converted to heat pumps and those who still need to electrify.

At present, no other utility in the state offers this reduced rate. This discounted rate is not available to households that still have fossil fuel heating for part of their home.